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Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate familiar high-end venues. But, tucked prominently among these culinary titans is a modest salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This recognition has made the owners completely astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble shop securing such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its original charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.